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6.0L Powerstroke Technical Discussion Technical info, repair and non performance related discussion for the 6.0L Power Stroke engine here.

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  #1  
Old 12-26-2011, 06:06 PM
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LadyDemonsia LadyDemonsia is offline
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Default Intermittent Issues 03' 6.0 Turbo? EGR? Coolant!

We recently purchased a 2003 f-250 6.0 with 95,000 miles. A few weeks later we started to have intermittent issues. Some times we get a surging/lag in the turbo which causes the transmission not to shift when it should. This was particularly bad when towing. Some days we have a shimmy in the entire vehicle, but this hasn't been frequent. Some days we get a pulsing wind up/down in the turbo. These were accompanied by lots of black smoke. Some days it runs perfectly fine and we can't see any correlation to good days and bad. We did find a loose hose clamp and noticed an immediate improvement once replaced, but the issue has since then repeated. We pulled the EGR and although dirty, wasn't plugged. The O-rings and gasket definitely need replacement though and we also found out a bolt was missing... On a whim my husband disconnected the EGR last week and it hasn't repeated the above problems since. During this entire time we have had NO CODES, even after disconnecting the EGR. Should this be a concern?? We have the round style EGR and we were told there was less sensors on the earlier years...??

Independently, we have had a flashing battery light. We replaced the batteries which were borderline pass/fail , but this did not fix. The alternator passed, but we think it's original. Should we replace the alternator and/or voltage regulator and how do we determine the AMP needed for the alt? The truck did come with a plow.

And... Recently we noticed leaking coolant under the truck. We only notice it if the truck sits for a full day, never when it's warm.. It starts somewhere near the top/rear of the engine and runs down the passenger side along the engine/tranny joint. We haven't had any overheating issues and the EGR did not appear "power washed". Should we be looking at the egr to oil cooler connector hose or something else? My husband thinks it's also possibly a cracked overflow reservoir as it never seems to go more than 1/4" below the min line, but this could just be coincidence.

This is our first diesel so it's been a rough learning curve. My husband has received A LOT of suggestions but we could spend a fortune and not find the correct part(s). With no codes we hate the just randomly replace parts that might not be faulty. We replaced the air filter and did an oil change. The FICM was reprogrammed a few years back. Any Suggestions???

Last edited by LadyDemonsia; 12-26-2011 at 06:08 PM. Reason: missing info
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  #2  
Old 12-26-2011, 06:19 PM
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kevin kevin is offline
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I would say the surging its caused by the vanes sticking in the turbo.. sounds like you might have a egr cooler leaking, best thing to do would be just delete the egr all together, if that's not a option check into bullet proof egr kits..
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LadyDemonsia View Post
We recently purchased a 2003 f-250 6.0 with 95,000 miles. A few weeks later we started to have intermittent issues. Some times we get a surging/lag in the turbo which causes the transmission not to shift when it should. This was particularly bad when towing. Some days we have a shimmy in the entire vehicle, but this hasn't been frequent. Some days we get a pulsing wind up/down in the turbo. These were accompanied by lots of black smoke. Some days it runs perfectly fine and we can't see any correlation to good days and bad. We did find a loose hose clamp and noticed an immediate improvement once replaced, but the issue has since then repeated.

I'd assume be vgt is stuck or sticky, causing boost to vary for what appears to be no reason.

We pulled the EGR and although dirty, wasn't plugged. The O-rings and gasket definitely need replacement though and we also found out a bolt was missing... On a whim my husband disconnected the EGR last week and it hasn't repeated the above problems since. During this entire time we have had NO CODES, even after disconnecting the EGR. Should this be a concern?? We have the round style EGR and we were told there was less sensors on the earlier years...??

There are be same sensors on both engines. The vgt (variable geometry turbo)
Operates from back pressure and in conjunction with the ebp (exhaust back pressure sensor) and boost pressure (manifold absolute pressure) MAP

Independently, we have had a flashing battery light. We replaced the batteries which were borderline pass/fail , but this did not fix. The alternator passed, but we think it's original. Should we replace the alternator and/or voltage regulator and how do we determine the AMP needed for the alt? The truck did come with a plow.

The alternator is intermittent, and should prolly be replaced. Low voltage could also cause issues as the FICM (fuel injection control module) produces 48v to fire the injectors. The modules will fail when voltage drops for two long.

And... Recently we noticed leaking coolant under the truck. We only notice it if the truck sits for a full day, never when it's warm.. It starts somewhere near the top/rear of the engine and runs down the passenger side along the engine/tranny joint. We haven't had any overheating issues and the EGR did not appear "power washed". Should we be looking at the egr to oil cooler connector hose or something else? My husband thinks it's also possibly a cracked overflow reservoir as it never seems to go more than 1/4" below the min line, but this could just be coincidence.

The resavior will overflow if head gaskets leak and push coolant out the bottle.
Idsuggest an egr delete and a programmer to flash the PCM. So it runs on program with out commands to the egr. When you do the delete. Take the turbo off and split it to clean the vgt

This is our first diesel so it's been a rough learning curve. My husband has received A LOT of suggestions but we could spend a fortune and not find the correct part(s). With no codes we hate the just randomly replace parts that might not be faulty. We replaced the air filter and did an oil change. The FICM was reprogrammed a few years back. Any Suggestions???
You need an enhanced powertrain scan tool to ensure you retrieve all the codes.
Koer test, buzz test are both necessary at this point.

Pm me and I can get you my number if you need further assistance. Luke
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~~~~~~~2003 F350 SC Shop Truck~~~~~~~

WD190/100, BWD Billet 71, T500, HD RR fuel system, Colt ST2 cam, RCD high rev springs, RCD Pushrods, Mahle pistons fly cut and delipped, Mitshimoto Intercooler, CTS, FASS Titanium 220gph, FASS sump, Fuel Lab, TIAL, AFE stage 2, MBRP, Warren comp trans, TCS Billet shafts, Precision converter, windrunner ported intake, FICM by Ed, Atlas 40 tune
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:33 AM
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LadyDemonsia LadyDemonsia is offline
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Thanks for your info! It's been a rough winter with no free time it seems like and less money. We replaced the alternator and that seems to have fixed the flashing battery light. We haven't had any more coolant leaking out of the engine, but my husband noticed dampness inside the turbo when replacing the egr gasket. He's trying to decide if he should do an egr delete or upgrade? We plan on keeping the truck and we don't have emissions testing locally. He also wants to replace the oil cooler, but he'd like to do something like the bullet relocation kit and not the OEM. Is spending the extra money now worth the savings in time and parts later on??

We're looking at the-
option #1 bullet oil cooler system and egr cooler upgrade@ $2300
vs.
option #2 bullet oil cooler system @$1900. egr delete @$450 plus scanner @$380...

we've been running the the egr unplugged and so far no check engine light. Would we need to buy the scanner with option 2? Do the scanner programs need to be purchased separately? I think we have the early 2003 set-up with round egr and cooler. Is there any options that don't cost as much but do the same thing? What other parts should be replaced at this time? We also plan to clean the turbo while everything is apart. The truck does mostly highway miles with occasional long tows.
Thanks!
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:46 PM
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04 f350 unpluged my egr and never got a code also
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LadyDemonsia View Post
Thanks for your info! It's been a rough winter with no free time it seems like and less money. We replaced the alternator and that seems to have fixed the flashing battery light. We haven't had any more coolant leaking out of the engine, but my husband noticed dampness inside the turbo when replacing the egr gasket. He's trying to decide if he should do an egr delete or upgrade? We plan on keeping the truck and we don't have emissions testing locally. He also wants to replace the oil cooler, but he'd like to do something like the bullet relocation kit and not the OEM. Is spending the extra money now worth the savings in time and parts later on??

We're looking at the-
option #1 bullet oil cooler system and egr cooler upgrade@ $2300
vs.
option #2 bullet oil cooler system @$1900. egr delete @$450 plus scanner @$380...

we've been running the the egr unplugged and so far no check engine light. Would we need to buy the scanner with option 2? Do the scanner programs need to be purchased separately? I think we have the early 2003 set-up with round egr and cooler. Is there any options that don't cost as much but do the same thing? What other parts should be replaced at this time? We also plan to clean the turbo while everything is apart. The truck does mostly highway miles with occasional long tows.
Thanks!
I'd do option 2 ..... And I think you mean tuner/programmer not scanner
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~~~~~~~2003 F350 SC Shop Truck~~~~~~~

WD190/100, BWD Billet 71, T500, HD RR fuel system, Colt ST2 cam, RCD high rev springs, RCD Pushrods, Mahle pistons fly cut and delipped, Mitshimoto Intercooler, CTS, FASS Titanium 220gph, FASS sump, Fuel Lab, TIAL, AFE stage 2, MBRP, Warren comp trans, TCS Billet shafts, Precision converter, windrunner ported intake, FICM by Ed, Atlas 40 tune
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Old 02-08-2012, 04:46 PM
c85r86 c85r86 is offline
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The dampness in the turbo may be coming from the PCV valve (driver side valve cover); I have an '06, so the PCV may be in a different location. The vapors typically create an oily film on the compressor wheel.
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Old 02-08-2012, 08:45 PM
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Need to determine weather it's oil or coolant.... Oil could be coming from leaky turbo seals also
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~~~~~~~2003 F350 SC Shop Truck~~~~~~~

WD190/100, BWD Billet 71, T500, HD RR fuel system, Colt ST2 cam, RCD high rev springs, RCD Pushrods, Mahle pistons fly cut and delipped, Mitshimoto Intercooler, CTS, FASS Titanium 220gph, FASS sump, Fuel Lab, TIAL, AFE stage 2, MBRP, Warren comp trans, TCS Billet shafts, Precision converter, windrunner ported intake, FICM by Ed, Atlas 40 tune
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Old 02-12-2012, 02:12 AM
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So I was reading about unpluging egr cooler and Id say plug it back in as soon as you can. The hot gas can still get to the cooler and make it fail even faster as they can not get back out as the valve dose not open like it needs to.
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:06 PM
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It's rare for a 6.0 to set the cel for anything but a missfire or glo plug circut.
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